Anatomy of a Food Desert

FOOD DESERT: A community that has limited access to affordable and nutritious foods.

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Despite the steady increase of food production over time, 14.3 million (11.1%) of U.S. households were food insecure at some time during 2018. Like most inequities in this country, this food insecurity disproportionately affects people of color and children, especially those of single parents. By and large, people who are food insecure often live in communities with limited access to affordable and nutritious foods, also known as food deserts.

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The Food Desert Atlas data from the USDA shows that limited food access affects a larger percentage of people in urban populations compared to rural populations and the country as a whole. The lack of grocery stores in many urban areas forces people to obtain their food at other locations – such as convenient stores, gas stations, and fast food restaurants – which often lack fresh, healthy food options.

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The lack of access to healthy food is a major health problem for residents of these communities, as people that live in food deserts suffer from higher rates of obesity, diabetes, hypertension, heart disease, and stroke. However, this is not just a public health problem; it is also a city planning and government incentive problem. Why? Because after WWII, small neighborhood mom-and-pop markets started giving way to supermarkets, which require too much land to fit into areas that have already been developed.

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According to research conducted by Metro Forecasting Models, the average supermarket center in Florida needs about 15,000 people to support it, with a building size of 150,000 sq ft, which sits on 15 acres of land. Given these numbers, there are clear limitations to developing typical supermarkets in urban food deserts, especially in dense urban settings. It is clear that city planners and local governments must promote and incentivize alternative ways to provide fresh, healthy food to underserved communities.

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Many of these solutions go hand-in-hand with brownfields and general infill redevelopment: small neighborhood markets or specialty food stores typically thrive on small urban parcels; vacant lots or brownfields sites can be repurposed for urban agriculture; and traditional supermarkets can be reconfigured to bridge multiple stories instead of sprawling across several acres.

Less formal/more temporary solutions can also help to provide fresh, healthy offerings into food deserts. Farmer’s markets – especially those that accept SNAP and other types of assistance – are temporary, don’t take up much space, and can boost the local economy; community gardens can provide affordable, fresh produce as well as education, and they can be started pretty much anywhere, from schools to churches to rooftops; and grocery delivery can assist people with limited access or transportation to stores (and keep many socially distant). Food cooperatives also present promising opportunities to build resilient food systems and address food deserts. Co-ops have a long history with roots in civil rights and African American history, and have proven to be able to adapt during times of crisis.

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Over the course of the coronavirus pandemic, food insecurity has surfaced as a serious vulnerability to people living in food desserts and on low incomes. As we prepare for a stronger recovery, we need to critically evaluate ways to create resilient food systems within communities. We recognize that this is not as simple as putting in a community garden or starting a co-op grocery store. There are a variety of cultural nuances, food preferences, supply chains, and financial systems that need to be considered. A solution for one neighborhood may not be work in another. However, it is clear that our current system is not working and is exacerbating vulnerabilities which disproportionately impact people of color and low-income families.